![]() ![]() ![]() Luckily, the quick-feed technique is easier (and less dangerous, I think*) than the GriGri: with my right hand on the brake strand, I keep my left thumb in the green thumb loop and press up to hold the device open momentarily for feeding slack. And just like a GriGri, the device will also lock up when you feed slack quickly (leader pulls slack to clip) so this requires a special technique. I’m now using it at the sport crag like a GriGri. This allows a belayer to effortlessly hold a hanging climber and facilitates the jump-and-catch method of pulling a leader back up to his highpoint. ![]() Positioned with the green thumb loop away from the body, the device will catch and hold the rope after a strong tug from above. There are notable differences in each function, with varying degrees of complexity.ĭefinitely the most exciting feature. ATC Guide, Reverso), the Mega-Jul functions for belaying a leader, belaying one (or two) followers directly off the anchor, and rappelling. Like comparable advanced tube-style devices (e.g. Reviewer Drew Thayer testing out the Mega Jul, and working on his belayer’s neck. ![]() I wear out an ATC about every year, so this could be a very nice feature. *Being steel, I expect this device to last much longer than its aluminum cousins. It is rated for rope diameters between 7.8mm and 10.5mm, covering most half and single ropes and all but the thinnest twin ropes. Consequently, it is also freakishly thin. Made of steel* instead of aluminum, the Mega Jul shaves some weight (10-15%) off popular tube-style devices, and weighs 61% less than the GriGri. Light weight: “Dude, is that thing real?” was my buddy’s first reaction. This new device is not the be-all-end-all, but definitely has its merits. The catch: it’s hard teaching an old dog new tricks, and having used the ATC Guide for so many years that I can basically rig it blindfolded, I encountered a steep, confusing learning curve with the new device. While we all thought belay devices had reached their evolutionary zenith, Edelrid was re-inventing the wheel and came up with a pretty slick new device that actually does more than any predecessor. The scenario did indeed happen many times and the auto-locking device allowed efficient recovery after big falls.īringing the GriGri was an easy choice because we were dragging a 70 pound haulbag anyway, but would I bring it on a fast-and-light push with hard climbing? Seems like a lot of extra weight for a little convenience.Įnter the Mega Jul belay device. When a buddy and I rapped into the Black Canyon to throw our best effort at Tague Yer Time this spring, we decided after some debate to bring an extra belay device-the GriGri-because an auto-locking device facilitates the belayer helping the leader pull back to his high-point. Times change and so do tactics I’ve recently found myself eschewing the summit-by-any-means methods that defined my early climbing years and actually trying to free hard pitches on long routes, which can be quite satisfying but usually involves a lot of air time. Reviewed by Drew Thayer, Senior Correspondent I clip my ATC Guide to my harness for multi-pitch ventures and keep my GriGri racked with my sport draws and that’s almost all I ever think about belay devices. There’s always room for innovation in climbing gear, but I thought belay devices had been pretty well figured out. ![]()
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